JHUMPA LAHIRI SAYS...

“Do yourself a favor. Before it's too late, without thinking too much about it first, pack a pillow and a blanket and see as much of the world as you can. You will not regret it.”

IV | October 1, 2020

THE EDITOR'S NOTE

Greetings, fellow sojourners!

Edition 4 of Portmanteau here! We thank each and every one of you for the response for Portmanteau 3, and we're excited to showcase our latest edition with a diverse collection of stories as usual. 
Our feature story is an insight into the culinary, spiritual practices that followers of the Buddha partake in.
In our on-going journey to find places off the beaten path, we look at Earth's southernmost point, and what mysteries it holds.  We also feature a recipe for some mouth-tingling chilli oil, and feature THE Alain Ducasse, culinary extraordinaire and entrepreneur, whose restaurant I was fortunate enough to dine in, at the Dorchestor Collection hotels in Paris.

Our Travel Record this month features some of the world's hit artists, all with birthdays this month! And this edition's Reel showcases 3 of the best animated movies in the last few years, with a surprise classic from the world of anime. And our Thinking Owl had a rather obscure thought the last time
we heard from him! 

We hope you enjoy this edition of Portmanteau. And we always welcome stories or thoughts from you, our patron.

Sharing the mutual love for travel!
Ashish

01 Stories That Matter

A deep dive into a story that's arcane, thoughtful, and sometimes humorous!

On an ancient Japanese tradition

Involving food and religion

Japan is steeped in history that sets itself apart by the fact that it keeps perfecting its traditions rather than radically moving away from it. Interestingly this approach has led to as much innovation as any other developed society with contrasting ideologies has. 

Continuation and incremental changes are the defining factors of the Japanese way of life and sound very familiar to the new age mantra of sustainability.

Every ritual, every corner of Japan is a case study in a sustainable way of life which is luxurious and uncompromised. We will here explore one such aspect coming from the ancient monasteries of Wakayama Prefecture. Hundreds of temples form the ancient complex of Koya, a popular pilgrimage centre over the centuries where people come for a wide spectrum of spiritual practice from meditation to calligraphy. But the unlikeliest of the spiritual exercise is the cooking of the devotion cuisine, shōjin ryōri.

Buddhism arrived at the island country nearly 1500 years ago, along with its minimalism and austerity that spawned the more popular rituals of ikebana and tea ceremonies that have taken over the world. A lesser-known ritual of shōjin ryōri was pioneered by Dogen, the founder of Soto Zen school. He believed simple and seasonal cooking had the power to align the mind, body and soul.

Dogen’s famed essay, “Tenzo Kyokun”, Instructions to the Cook, outlines not only the importance of ingredient selection and balance but the mindfulness of the chef. Although a vegetarian fare, attention to detail and effort that goes into creating simple dish such as goma dofu (sesame tofu) is almost Herculean. Today, this spiritual cuisine is finding its way into the plates of patrons in Michelin starred restaurants, something we recommend highly on your next visit to Japan.

02 What You Missed When Grounded

Germany's most celebrated drinking festival is here at last! 

Where beer and merriment flow in unison!

A snippet about Oktoberfest 


If you’re a fan of froth, chances are you’ll have heard of the 14 day beer extravaganza in Germany known as Oktoberfest. One of the world’s oldest festivals that has been in existence since the 19th century, Oktoberfest is a volksfest: A typical German carnival that means “people’s fest”. More than 6 million people currently attend the festival every year!  




Oktoberfest has a beautiful origin story that goes all the way back to 1810.. It was introduced by King Ludwig I as a ceremony to commemorate his marriage with princess Therese. With the whole city of Munich in attendance, there was beer flowing for many days thereafter. The event was originally closed with a grand horse race, and the public liked the idea so much that it went public: And became Oktoberfest! Eventually, the festival also became an event to promote agriculture in Germany, and soon people from all walks of life would roam the festival grounds and indulge in the fair and other niceties.

Today, while horse racing no longer takes place, Oktoberfest is still an essential part of German culture, and is an experience whose likes of which every traveller must experience at least once.Along with timeless tradition, Oktoberfest also recognizes changing communities and respects the concept of inclusiveness. The festival also hosts LGBT friendly days known as Rosa Wiesn or gay days, a tradition that has been in existence since 1970.

The whole concept of the festival has also been modified over the years to become a more suitable attraction for all members of the family. There are multiple tents across the ground, such as quiet sections for families that play soft music and have seating arrangements. Or smoking sections so that patrons can have a smoke with their beer, and so on. The main component of the fests, the beer, is supplied by a number of German breweries, some of whom have recipes dating as far back as the 19th century.

So if you’d like to say “prost!” with a tanker of beer in hand, dancing to some good old german rock, book your Oktoberfest tickets next time! The festival is currently on-going, with the last date being October 4th, 2020.

03 Let's Get Comical

Calvin may just have a point as to why we haven't met any aliens yet. 

04 The Reel

For this edition, we've gone back in time a little. Remember the early days of film where animation was a big deal? The power of bringing things to life with little more than a paper and pencils was witchcraft, and it continued growing with the advent of computer generated graphics.

This edition of The Reel showcases three of the best animated movies to have come out in recent times. 2 from Disney-Pixar, and a Studio Ghibli classic. 

 
WALL-E is one of Pixar’s most celebrated titles ever, for good reason. The storytelling and animation present in this film defy all stereotypes, and the film becomes a grandiose spectacle. 
The Earth is dead due to pollution and no greenery, and no humans seem to be calling it home anymore.

The only “inhabitant” of the planet is a robot named..you guessed it. WALL-E  has a knack for collecting trinkets, has a pet cockroach and likes dancing to Broadway musicals. Then, one day while at work, he finds a small plant that’s alive and healthy. And the story takes a wild twist from here, across galaxies and spaceships.   

Up is the perfect example of a movie that has everything: Romance, comedy, adventure and dollops of humor. Up tells us the story about Carl Fredriksen, a balloon salesman who has the spirit of adventure. Carl’s biggest dream was to travel to Paradise Falls, which is actually based on Angel Falls in Venezuela.

Carl befriends and marries Ellie, and the couple move into the perfect house that they build together. However, as time moves on, Ellie becomes sick, and eventually passes away, before they can embark on their trip. A stricken Carl becomes an introvert, and a grumpy old man. Until a boy scout named Kevin pulls him out of his comfort zone and leads him on the kind of adventure only Disney can conceive!

This classic Studio Ghibli hit is a tear jerker for all the right reasons. Grave Of The Fireflies is a tragic story about the survival of two siblings during the violent clashes of World War 2, or rather the last few months of the great war. The hardships these young children face, their relationship as siblings, and the big, unkind world throwing everything at them, and the tragic losses they endure on their goal to survive the war.

Every moment in Grave is one that makes the viewer introspect. With a beginning and end that might be one of animated film’s best ever, Grave Of The Fireflies is a heavy watch that will make you introspect about the atrocities of war


05 Improbable Places

Have you ever wondered what the last point on Earth possibly looks like? Read more about travelling to Antarctica.  

Antarctica
Icy wonderland, Earth's last point 

(Illustration by Edward Adrian Wilson)

Seldom do people think of vast expanses of icy wonderlands when they think of a travel destination. And yet, Antarctica is one of the most exotic, improbable places that one can currently travel to. 






This seemingly barren continent holds within itself a wonder of sights and treasures. But most of all, a kind of isolation that cannot be found anywhere else. Literally.  



Antarctica is, of course, well known for its landscape: Ice covers nearly 98% of the land mass. The continent has no native population. The only humans who live in Antarctica are researchers, with a maximum of 5000 people from various countries residing in research stations scattered around, closer to the coast.

So what comprises this vast nothingness? For one thing, Antarctica is partially engulfed in tundra when the winters are less harsh and there’s some sunlight. Miles upon miles of various species of lichen and moss, with the occasional shrub. Despite the lack of proper vegetation, Antarctica is home to a plethora of marine wildlife that also make the ice shelves their home. The Emperor Penguins are the most iconic animals here; their journey of breeding and nesting every year is one of the natural world’s most impressive success stories. Orcas, seals and a multitude of plankton also constitute a good portion of Antarctica’s wildlife. Of course, there are numerous glaciers and lakes throughout, some of which have names. Lake Fryxell, for instance, is a frozen lake that’s 4.5km in length. The solidified azure waters make for compelling views. Or Mount Erebus, the only active volcano in the southernmost region of the world.

Then there’s probably the most exclusive experience that humans have ever undertaken: A visit to the south pole. Literally the southernmost tip of planet earth, this geographic location marks the true spirit of human endeavors and discovery. This pole, the true point of where Earth’s magnetic poles pass through, was discovered in the early 20th century on an expedition by flight. Today, White Desert is one of the only companies that undertakes luxury tours to Antarctica, especially the South Pole. They cater to a limited capacity of 150 people every season. For the kind of experiences available, and the sheer seclusion and impact Antarctica has on a person, there’s every reason this is just an improbable place worth exploring.  

You can follow White Desert here: @white.desert.antarctica

06 The Thinking Owl

How is it that noses can run and feet can smell?

07 Food for Thought

If you’ve been averse to spicy food all these days, we have something from the Orient that might just change your mind.

Sichuan Chilli Oil

Every time you’ve walked into a restaurant that serves Asian cuisine, you may have noticed a trio of condiments on every table. The standard accompaniments are usually soy sauce, vinegar and chillies. But some restaurants, usually more contemporary or classic establishments and especially old school eateries, make do with one single component on the table: Chilli oil.

This numbing, spicy, umami packed oil is a staple in every single Chinese household and restaurant.It can be used with rice, noodles, meat, eaten directly or used in cooking: Simply one of the most iconic condiments of the country. And like all foods from China, this too has a story: The chilli oil varies greatly across regions, and every household has their own recipe for it.

However, most people will agree in unison that the quintessential chilli oil hails from Sichuan, which is known for its bold, sharp and flavorful cuisine. And the component that gives Sichuan chilli oil its characteristic flavor? Sichuan peppercorn, a small fruit that’s surprisingly a member of the citrus family.
 

the recipe...

The Ingredients

500g neutral flavored oil (sunflower or rice bran)
200g dried chilies OR 200gm sichuan chilli flakes


Spices To Toast:   
2 bay leaves
3 pieces star anis
2 pieces of cinnamon
3 pieces black cardamom
1/2 Tbsp dried fennel seeds
1 Tbsp Sichuan peppercorns
5 slices of ginger
5 garlic cloves, abused and destroyed

Flavor/aromatics: 

1/2 large onion, diced
1/2 cup crushed peanuts
1/4 cup sesame seeds  

Directions

  1. If using dried chillies, de-seed the chillies, toast them and then blend them into a coarse powder.
  2. Toast all the spices in a pan until they start smoking a little.  .
  3. Add the oil, set the stove to medium and let the spices infuse with the oil. Once the garlic turns golden brown, remove the spices from the oil as much as you can. It’s okay if some pieces remain
  4. Now into the oil, add the onion and peanuts. Simmer until they turn golden brown.
  5. In a large metal bowl, add the chilli flakes and add 1tsp salt and optionally 1tsp brown sugar. Take the oil off the heat and quickly pour into the chilli flakes. Mix well and let rest for at least 24 hours. Your chilli oil is ready!

08 The Travel Record

For this travel record, we go with 10 tracks across mixed genres. But with a twist: All the hit artists that we chose to feature in this edition celebrate their birthdays in October! 

09 Puzzled?

Puzzles to get your neurons firing.
Email us a screenshot when done!

Crossword Puzzle Maker

10 The Elysian

We speak to Alain Ducasse, the mastermind behind farm-to-table dining in Europe. With a whopping 21 Michelin stars to his name, it's no wonder why the world loves Alain! 

You don’t know what Farm to Table cuisine is until you have had the opportunity of dining at one of Alain Ducasse’s many restaurants, particularly the Michellin starred ones. Farm to table is the trend today. And as with all trends that become a movement, they come with a long legacy and not as spontaneous or novel as one would think.

1956 marks the year when a culinary genius was born into simple farm life in the Southwest of France. This is where the roots of ‘Farm to Table’ cuisines lie. Developing a taste and appreciation at a very young age for fresh ingredients along with techniques to preserve and cook them were the defining elements of Alain Ducasse’s childhood. 

At the young age of 16, Alain Ducasse started working, apprenticing under the master chefs of his region, including Michel Guérard, Gaston Lenôtre among others. Alain Ducasse fondly remembers Roger Vergé’s Moulin de Mougins though. He discovered the flavours of Provencal cooking at Verge’s kitchen which were later to become an essential element in his own kitchens. 

The industry recognised his ability and diligence soon, with offers to lead his own kitchen. At La Terrasse at the Hotel Juana in Juan-Les-Pins, Alain Ducasse was awarded two stars in the Michelin Guide in 1984 catapulting him as a bright star in the culinary cosmos. Alain Ducasse grabbed at the right opportunities post that and redefined himself not just as a great chef, but an entrepreneur and educator creating a legacy of culinary culture that has come to define the modern-day fine dining more than any one individual has.  Today, the Dorchestor Collection features 3 of his restaurants in their bespoke hotels: The Hôtel Plaza Athénée and Le Meurice in Paris, and The Dorchester in London. 

@alainducasse

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